Community Development

Building official in front of building under construction

Mechanical Code

   General Information

  • Permits are required before starting work.
  • Permits become void if the work authorized is not commenced within 180 days of permit issuance, or if the work is suspended or abandoned at any time for a period of 180 days or more after the work first begins.
  • All work must comply with the Uniform Mechanical Code and the Mechanical Regulations of the Long Beach Municipal Code.
  • No work is to be covered or energized without first having been inspected and approved by the City.
  • It is recommended that spare electrical capacity be installed initially to allow for the addition of future electrical appliances at minimum costs.
  • All equipment for which a permit is obtained under this code must be inspected by the Building Official or an authorized inspector. The Manufacturers Installation Instructions must be available for the inspector at the time of inspection.
  • The portion of any equipment intended to be concealed by any permanent portion of the building shall not be concealed until inspected and approved.
  • When the installation of any equipment is complete, a second or final inspection must be made.
  • Equipment regulated by this code must not be connected to the fuel or power supply until authorized by the Building Official.

Exception: The requirements of this section will not be considered to prohibit the operation of any heating equipment installed to replace existing heating equipment serving an occupied portion of a building. This is in the event that a request for inspection of such heating equipment has been filed with the department not more than 48 hours after the replacement work is completed, prior to any permanent portion of the building conceals any portion of such equipment.

A final inspection approval may, upon notice, be revoked if the Building Official finds that the heating, ventilating, cooling or refrigeration equipment fails in any respect to comply with the requirements of this code, or that the installation is unsafe, dangerous or a hazard to life or property.

Mechanical Code FAQs

  • California licensed contractors
  • Homeowners of one- or two-family dwellings, accessory buildings and facilities, if:
    • The owner resides or intends to reside in the dwelling and can show proof of residence
    • The mechanical work is performed by the owner
    • The owner signs a statement that they will not employ an individual who is subject to California workers’ compensation laws

When a permit is issued, the signature and identity of the applicant will be verified — a California Driver’s License, a State of California Identification Card or other positive identification will meet this requirement.

Contractors working in the City of Long Beach are required to have a Long Beach business license. If a contractor has employees, proof of Workers’ Compensation Insurance must be shown when the permit is issued. Contractors working alone may waive this requirement, but they must show a pocket copy of their State Contractor’s License.

  • You want to install, alter, reconstruct, or repair any heating, ventilating, cooling, or refrigeration equipment
  • You want to move or install any heating, ventilating, cooling, or refrigeration equipment in a relocated building

Please note that a separate permit must be obtained for equipment installed in each separate building or structure.

Exception: A separate mechanical permit will not be required for any mechanical work involving a Group R or Division 3 for which a combined permit has been obtained, pursuant to Section 18.04.010.

Your work involves any of the following:

  • A portable heating appliance
  • A portable ventilating equipment
  • A portable cooling unit
  • A portable evaporative cooler
  • A unit refrigerating system
  • A refrigerating equipment that is a part of an equipment that a permit has already been issued for
  • Any steam or hot/chilled water piping within any heating or cooling equipment regulated by this code
  • Replacement of any component part or assembly of an appliance that does not alter its original approval and complies with other applicable requirements of this code

Condensate from air conditioning equipment and cooling coils shall be collected and discharged to an approved plumbing fixture or disposal area. Condensate shall not drain over a public way. Specific requirements are as follows:

  • Condensate must be piped to the sanitary system with an indirect connection into a properly trapped and vented plumbing receptor or directly into its tailpiece; or
  • Condensate may be piped to an approved drywell. When condensate is terminated at a drywell, it shall be an indirect connection to a properly constructed drywell. Handouts specifying drywell construction requirements are available at the Development Permit Center. Drywells for draining large tonnage systems and for commercial and industrial projects must be engineered and included as part of the approved plans for the project.

Additional requirements for condensate piping to consider are as follows:

  • Condensate drain lines shall slope not less then 1/8 inch per foot or one percent slope toward the termination and shall be of an approved corrosion resistant material.
  • Condensate drain lines shall be sized in accordance with the California Mechanical Code Section 310.3 or as recommended by the equipment manufacturer.
  • When a cooling coil is located in an attic or furred space where damage may result from condensate overflow, an additional water tight pan of corrosion resistant metal shall be installed beneath the cooling coil to catch overflow condensate due to a clogged primary condensate drain, or one pan with a standing overflow and separate secondary drain may be provided in lieu of the secondary pan. The secondary drain shall be piped to a discharge location where it can be readily observed outdoors such as over a door or window.
Dryer moisture exhaust ducts shall be of metal and shall have smooth interior surfaces. Screws or other fasteners shall not be used that will penetrate the duct wall and obstruct the airflow. Dryer moisture exhaust ducts shall only serve clothes dryers. Unless otherwise permitted or required by the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions and approved by the Authority Having Jurisdiction, domestic clothes dryer moisture exhaust ducts shall not exceed a total combined horizontal and vertical length of 14 feet, including two 90-degree elbows. Two feet shall be deducted for each 90-degree elbow in excess of two.
Interior spaces intended for human occupancy shall be provided with active or passive space heating systems capable of maintaining a minimum indoor temperature of 68°F at a point three feet above the floor on the design heating day.
Not less than 30 inches in depth, width and height of working space and platform shall be provided to service all equipment on the service/access side of the equipment. Clearances to combustibles shall be in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s listing and installation instructions. Additional clearances may be required by the equipment manufacturer for service, airflow, etc. Clearance for gas vents shall be in accordance with the listed vent manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Environmental exhaust ducts shall terminate a minimum of three feet from the property line and three feet from openings to the building.

  • Obtain the furnace manufacturers installation instructions and install the forced air furnace to their specifications.
  • Establish the best location for installation of forced air unit and vent.
  • An attic in which a FAU is installed shall be accessible by an opening and passageway 30" x 30" in size. Attic access may be reduced to 22" x 30" provided the largest piece of equipment can be removed through the opening.
  • Install passageway platform minimum 24" inches width and maximum 20 feet in length to FAU.
  • Install working platform not less than 30" in depth and width in front of the entire firebox side of the FAU.
  • A permanent electric outlet and lighting fixture controlled by a switch located at the required passageway opening shall be provided at or near the furnace.
  • Install vent, roof flashing and vent cap. Double wall type vent requires minimum 1" clearance to combustible materials and requires a minimum 5' - 0" vent termination above the highest vent collar it serves.
  • A means shall be provided to disconnect the FAU from the power source for servicing the appliance. See manufacturers installation instructions for approved disconnect method.
  • An approved shut-off valve is required to be installed at the gas piping outlet, immediately ahead of the flex connector, and must be accessible.
  • Obtain the furnace manufacturer’s installation instructions and install the furnace to their specifications.
  • Establish location of the wall furnace. Maintain six-inch minimum from the inside corner of rooms and 12" from the swing of doors and windows. Establish best location for installation of vent.
  • Cut out double top plate in a 2"x4" nominal wall to a full 14 1/2" full stud width. 
  • Head out any ceiling joists that will be closer than one inch to the vent when installed.
  • Cut hole in roof sheathing to accommodate vent penetration.
  • Install furnace header plate in the stud bay. Secure with screws or nails.
  • Attach hold-down base plate to furnace header plate with sheet metal screws.
  • Install a type BW gas vent in stud space that is free of obstructions. Snap vent into hold-down base plate. Snap sections of vent together. Maintain 12-foot minimum vent termination from bottom plate to top of vent.
  • Install listed ceiling plate spacer. The plate spacer is designed to center the furnace vent in the stud space and to allow heat to dissipate from stud space into the attic space above.
  • Install Attic shield. An attic shield is a sheet metal sleeve that shall extend around the gas vent from the top of the ceiling plate into the attic at least 12" below the roof sheathing.
  • Install roof flashing and storm collar.
  • Install vent cap.
  • Install gas line to stud space serving wall furnace.
  • Provide gas test. Install thermostat wire.

Electrical Code

 General Information

  • Permits are required before starting work.
  • Permits become void if the work authorized is not commenced within 180 days of permit issuance, or if the work is suspended or abandoned at any time for a period of 180 days or more after the work first begins.
  • All work must comply with the National Electrical Code and the Electrical Regulations of the Long Beach Municipal Code.
  • No work is to be covered or energized without first having been inspected and approved by the City.
  • It is recommended that spare electrical capacity be installed initially to allow for the addition of future electrical appliances at minimum costs.
  • All electrical materials and equipment must be new and approved for the intended use and location by a recognized testing laboratory such as Underwriters' Laboratories, Electrical Testing Laboratories or Factory Mutual. Used construction materials must not be installed without prior special permission.
  • Conduits, cable assemblies, boxes, cabinets, and fittings must be securely fastened in place. Conduits and cable assemblies must be continuous from outlet to outlet and from fitting to fitting.
  • If cables run through holes in studs, joists or similar wood members, holes must be bored at the approximate center. Where there is no structural objection, armored cable or non-metallic sheathed cable must be protected against the penetration of driven nails by covering the notch with a steel plate at least 1/16-inch thick before building finish is applied.
  • There must be no splices within the conduits. An approved box must be installed at each outlet, switch, junction of conduit, electrical metallic tubing, armored cable, or non-metallic sheathed cable. At least six inches of wire, measured from the face of the box, must be left at each outlet and switch point for making up joints for the connection of fixtures or devices. Splices must be made electrically and mechanically secure and be covered with an approved insulated solderless connector.
  • Wires must be of adequate size for supplying their connected load. Wires shall be considered as properly protected when the fuse or circuit breaker is set at a rating that does not exceed the allowable current carrying capacity of the wire.
  • Interior wiring systems must be polarized, and all wires must be an approved type having an insulating, flame-retardant covering. Wires used as neutral conductors of circuits must have white insulation. Green insulation must be used only for grounding conductors. Wires must not be smaller than No. 14AWG. Wires used in wet locations must be TW, RW or another approved type.
  • Metal raceways, cable armor, and fittings must be grounded. Metallic outlet boxes, lighting fixtures, and appliances with exposed non-current-carrying metal parts must be grounded. These must be mechanically joined together into a continuous electrical conductor to provide effective electrical continuity to ground.

For more information, see Conductor Size and Conduit Requirements.

  • All electric wiring for which a permit is required must be inspected and approved before being energized or used.
  • No serving agency shall furnish or supply, or cause a permit to be furnished or supplied, electric energy to any such electric wiring until inspection and approval.
  • Nothing contained in this section shall be construed to prohibit the temporary use of electric energy when and as specifically provided in this chapter.
  • Nothing contained in this section shall be construed to prohibit the inspection of any electric wiring, even though no permit is required. If approval is withheld, a written notification showing the date, location of defect in the work, with the signature of the inspector, shall be sent to the permittee or posted on the premises. Failure of the permittee to make such corrections within ten days after notification thereof is sufficient cause for refusal to issue any further permits to the permittee until such corrections have been made.
  • No person shall conceal, enclose or cover, or cause or permit to be concealed, enclosed or covered, any portion of any electric wiring in any manner that will interfere with or prevent the inspection and approval thereof.
  • Any portion of any floor, ceiling, wall, partition, roof, finish or other obstruction whatsoever which renders impracticable the making of a complete and thorough inspection of electric wiring shall be removed upon notice (either verbal or in writing) to do so, and shall be kept removed until such electric wiring has been inspected and approved.
  • The provisions of this section shall not apply to finished work, or to conductors inserted in conduit or other wiring enclosures.
  • Before a final inspection of any electric wiring, all plaster, concrete or other foreign material shall be thoroughly removed from every box and wiring enclosure, and not less than six inches of jointless conductors shall extend out of each lighting outlet box for future connection thereto, except when conductors are intended to loop through the box.
  • In any case where one or more taped joints are found not soldered at the time of inspection, the inspector may require every joint for such electric wiring to be left untaped until the inspection and approval thereof.
  • Fixtures or appliances shall not be connected to electric wiring until the rough wiring has been inspected and approved except as otherwise satisfactory to the Building Official.
  • All such wiring shall be free from grounds, shorts, or other defects, before approval thereof.
  • Whenever any electric wiring has been inspected and found to comply with the provisions of this chapter, the inspector shall leave a notice at the service switch or other suitable place so stating, and the Building Official shall issue a certificate of inspection when requested, or service permit authorizing the connection to the electrical service and the energizing of the installation.
  • Non-metallic sheathed cable may be used where it is totally concealed within wood frame walls or attic spaces. Non-metallic cable shall not be used in cabinets, wet or damp locations, nor as portable cables. In attics, mechanical protection of cables is required within six feet of scuttles and mechanical equipment. Non-metallic sheathed cable shall be secured at intervals not to exceed 4 feet 6 inches and within 12 inches of every outlet box or fitting. A change from non-metallic sheathed cable to a metal-protected wiring system shall be made in an accessible metallic junction box. Non-metallic sheathed cable shall be of the type having grounding wire in addition to the energized wires.
  • Armored cable may be used if properly protected from mechanical injury. Armored cable may be used for both exposed and concealed work in dry locations. At all points where the armor terminates, an approved insulating bushing shall be secured and protected in a manner similar to non-metallic sheathed cable. A change from armored cable to another wiring system shall be made in an accessible metallic junction box.
  • Flexible metal conduit, not less than 1/2-inch electrical trade size, may be used if properly protected from mechanical injury. Flexible metal conduit shall be secured by an approved means at intervals not exceeding 4 feet 6 inches and within 12 inches of every outlet box or fitting. All ends shall be reamed or burred to remove rough edges. Bends of flexible metal conduit shall be made so that the conduit will not be injured. A run of flexible metal conduit shall not contain more than four quarter bends between outlets or fittings. A grounding conductor (green) shall be provided whenever the length of run exceeds six feet.
  • Outlet, switch and junction boxes, fittings and cabinets shall be securely fastened in place. Non-metallic boxes may be used only with a non-metallic wiring system. Metallic boxes used with non-metallic wiring systems shall be grounded.
  • Boxes and fittings installed in damp or wet locations shall be weatherproof. Outlet boxes for concealed work shall have a depth of at least 1-1/2 inches. Conduits or cables entering boxes shall be secured with approved clamps or connectors. Where non-metallic outlet boxes are used with non-metallic sheathed cable, the clamping of individual cables to the box is not required if the cable is secured within 8 inches of the box.
  • Each outlet of the junction box shall be provided with a cover. Metal plugs shall effectively close unused openings in boxes and cabinets. In walls or ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible material, outlet boxes and fittings shall be flush with the finished surface. In walls of non-combustible materials, boxes and fittings shall be installed so that the front edge of the box or fitting will not set back more than 1/4 inch. Junction boxes shall be installed in an accessible location.
  • Each single-family dwelling should be provided with one or more lighting branch circuits of 15 or 20 amperes in rating.
  • In every livable room including kitchen, family, dining, and bedroom, a general use receptacle outlet shall be installed in walls so that no point along the floor line in any wall space is more than 6 feet, measured horizontally, from an outlet in that space, including any wall space 2 feet or more in width and the wall space occupied by sliding panels in exterior walls. A receptacle outlet is required to be located at each kitchen counter 12 inches or more in width and adjacent to each lavatory sink.
  • Each dwelling unit shall have not less than two small appliance receptacle branch circuits for the supply of receptacle outlets located in the kitchen. Small appliance receptacle outlets are those located in the kitchen, service porch, pantry, laundry room or area, dining room or area, breakfast room or area. Receptacle outlets or branch circuits located in other rooms or areas are considered as convenience receptacle outlets. Small appliance branch circuits shall not supply convenience receptacle outlets, lighting outlets, or fixed appliances. A branch circuit supplying only convenience receptacle outlets may also supply lighting outlets and fixed appliances.
  • Each dwelling unit shall be provided with an individual 20-ampere branch circuit for a receptacle outlet installed adjacent to a laundry tray or other plumbing suitable for a washing machine.
  • Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters
  • Receptacles installed above the kitchen sink counter tops shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection.
  • Receptacles installed in bathrooms, garages, basements and those installed outdoors shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection.
  • A ground-fault circuit interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel. It functions to de-energize a circuit, or portion thereof, within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds some predetermined value that is less than that required to operate the overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) device of the supply circuit. In other words, the ground fault circuit interrupter is a very sensitive device that protects a person from receiving an electrical shock, whereas a circuit breaker is a slower acting device that only protects the electrical circuit from burning up.

Residential Garage & Basements

  • At least one receptacle outlet, in addition to any provided for laundry equipment, shall be installed in each attached garage, basement, and in each detached garage with electrical power.
  • All receptacles located inside and on the exterior wall of the garage or basement shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection, except for the laundry equipment receptacle.
  • At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in the attached garage or basement and its outdoor entrances.
  • All 125-volt 15-20 ampere receptacles in a basement shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection.

 

Minimum Requirements For Individual Appliance Branch Circuits Table

Type of Appliance

Branch Circuit Rating

Electrical range

50 amperes

Kitchen counter top small appliance branch circuit

20 amperes

Counter-mounted electric cooking unit

30 amperes

Dishwasher

15 amperes

Garbage Disposal

15 amperes

Sub Panels

30 amperes

Wall-mounted electric oven

30 amperes

Electric clothes dryer

30 amperes

Washing machine or laundry area

20 amperes

Appliance branch circuits, including conductors, circuit breakers or fuse holders, switches, and the like shall not supply a load greater than 80T of the branch circuit rating.

Minimum Size Service

  • Single-family dwelling with six or more two-wire branch circuits 100 amp, #4 THW copper or #2 THW aluminum wire.
  • Single-family dwelling with 100 amp, #4 THW copper wire.
  • Other loads: 60 amps, #6 THW copper or #4 THW aluminum wire.
  • The service head and meter shall be installed where directed by serving agency and shall be so located that the service drop may be installed with only one point of attachment without crossing over adjacent premises. The service drops for dwellings shall be not less than 10 feet above the ground and provide 12 feet clearance for service drops over private driveways.
  • Service equipment shall be installed at the nearest readily accessible point to the entrance of the service wires. The maximum height of the service switch or circuit breaker handle shall not exceed six feet, six inches above ground and shall have a clear working space of three feet deep and 30 inches wide.
  • The service raceway enclosure and interior wiring system shall be bonded in an approved manner and the grounding shall terminate in an approved accessible ground clamp attached to a continuous cold-water piping system. Bonding jumpers shall be installed where the double lock nut type connection is used. Where cold water system is used as service grounding, a ground rod shall be provided to be driven eight feet vertically into the earth and shall be mechanically bonded to the cold-water system in an approved manner.

Maximum Allowable Current Carrying Capacity in Amperes of Insulated Conductors in Conduits or Cables (TW insulation and not more than three conductors in conduit or cables.)

Size AWG

Amperes (Copper)

Amperes (Aluminum)

No. 14

15

-

No. 12

20

15

No. 10

30

25

No. 8

40

30

No. 6

55

40

No. 4

70

55

No. 2

95

75

No. 1

110

85

No. 0

125

100

Note: When installing more than three conductors in conduit or cables, see Note 8, Table 310-16 for derating factors (National Electrical Code).

Maximum Number of TW Conductors in Conduit or Tubing

Size AWG

Conduit or Tubing Size 

1/2"

3/4"

1"

1-1/4"

1-1/2"

2"

No. 14

9

15

25

44

60

99

No. 12

7

12

19

35

47

78

No. 10

5

9

15

26

36

60

No. 8

2

4

7

12

17

33

No. 6

1

2

4

7

10

16

No. 4

1

1

3

5

7

12

No. 2

1

1

2

4

5

9

No. 1

-

1

1

3

4

6

No. 0

-

1

1

2

3

5

Electrical Code FAQs

Yes. Aluminum building wire installation shall be permitted as long as the wiring methods are in compliance with California Electrical Code 110.5.
If the ground rod does not have a resistance to ground of 25 ohms or less it shall be augmented by one additional electrode, per California Electrical Code 250.56.
Arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI), combination type protection is required on branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, kitchens, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas or similar areas. California Electrical Code 210.12.

Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI):
All branch circuits that supply 125-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle outlets installed in dwelling unit bedrooms shall be protected by an AFCI.
Yes. Romex shall be permitted, per California Electrical Code 334.
Yes. Feeder conductor shall be sized for a maximum voltage drop of two percent at design load. Branch circuit conductors shall be sized for a maximum voltage drop of three percent at design load. Title 24 standard 130.5(c).

The following five controls are required in Title 24:

  1. Area Controls: Manual controls that control lighting in each area separately.
  2. Multi-level Controls: Allow occupants to choose the appropriate light level for each area.
  3. Shut-off Controls: Automatically shut off lighting or reduce light levels when illumination is not needed.
  4. Automatic Daylighting Controls: Adjust electric lighting in response to the presence of daylight.
  5. Demand responsive controls: Receive and automatically respond to demand response (DR) signals.

All lighting in each area (An “area” is a space enclosed by ceiling-height partitions) must be controlled separately from luminaires in other areas by manual on/off lighting controls that are:

  • Readily accessible
  • Located in the same room or area as the lighting they control and with the lighting in view
  • Able to provide any required dimming or multi-level controls steps in addition to on/off
  1. Title 24 sets a minimum number of control steps and illuminance uniformity requirement for most major luminaire types in TABLE 130.1-A. These requirements are required in addition to any manual, daylight, shut-off or demand response controls.
  2. These criteria apply only to general lighting for enclosed areas that:
    1. Are at least 100 square feet in size.
    2. Have a connected lighting load over 0.5 watts per square foot.
    3. Has more than one luminaire or more than two lamps.
  1. Automatic shut-off controls turn off the lights when a space is unoccupied.
  2. All lighting must be controlled by one or more of the following:
    1. Occupant sensing control.
    2. Automatic time-switch.
    3. Building Energy Management System.
    4. Other control capable of automatically shutting off all lights for vacant periods.

The OTC Plan Review Service applies to minor construction projects, including small additions or alterations to single-family dwellings, new detached Pre-Approved Accessory Dwelling Units (PAADUs), minor alterations to multi-family dwellings, and minor tenant improvements or alterations to nonresidential office or retail buildings. See IB-002 for more information.

Plumbing Code

     General Information

  • A plumbing permit is required prior to starting any installation, alteration, or repair work..
  • A permit becomes invalid if the authorized work does not begin within 180 days of issuance, or if the work is suspended or abandoned for 180 days or more after it has started..
  • All plumbing work must comply with the Uniform Plumbing Code and the plumbing regulations of the Long Beach Municipal Code.
  • Permits also become void if work is suspended or abandoned for 180 days or more after it has started.
  • All work must be inspected and approved by a City building official or authorized plumbing inspector before it is concealed, covered, or placed into service.

Plumbing permits may be issued to:

  • California licensed contractors
  • Homeowners of one- or two-family dwellings, accessory buildings, and facilities, if:
    • The owner resides or intends to reside in the dwelling and can show proof of residence
    • The plumbing work is performed by the owner
    • The owner signs a statement confirming they will not employ an individual subject to California workers’ compensation laws

When a permit is issued, the applicant’s signature and identity must be verified. Acceptable forms of identification include a California Driver License, a State of California Identification Card or other positive identification.

Contractors working in the City of Long Beach must have a Long Beach business license. If a contractor has employees, proof of Workers’ Compensation Insurance is required when the permit is issued. Contractors working alone may waive this requirement but must show a pocket copy of their State Contractor License.

A plumbing permit is required when any plumbing, gas or drainage piping work or any fixture or water heating or treatment equipment is installed, altered, repaired or replaced unless specifically exempted by the Long Beach Municipal Code LBMC 18.04.020(E).

EXEMPT FROM PLUMBING PERMITS:

  • Leak Stoppage & Minor Repairs: Stopping leaks or repairing plumbing defects without using new materials.
  • Water Heater Repairs: Repairing water heaters (excluding vents) without disconnecting them.
  • Trap Replacement: Replacing exposed traps for fixtures using approved and properly installed traps.
  • Toilet Ball Cock Replacement: Replacing defective or unapproved ball cocks in water tanks with anti-siphon types, properly installed.
  • Faucet Repairs: Repairing defective or unapproved faucets for sinks, lavatories and bathtubs using approved types and proper installation.
  • Short Gas Pipe Installations: Installing up to six feet of gas piping between an approved outlet and a gas appliance in the same room.
  • Public Sewer Work: Work on sewers entirely in the public right-of-way under the Department of Public Works or Utilities Department – Water Division.
  • Exhibition Plumbing Systems: Setting up plumbing systems for display purposes only, not connected to water or drainage systems, and in compliance with Department of Health & Human Services and Utilities Department – Water Division’s regulations.
  • Galvanized steel water piping shall not be installed in the ground under a building, unless it is protected against corrosion by a machine applied coating or wrapping.
  • PVC water lines are not approved under or within buildings.
  • Copper tubing type L or heavier may be used in all locations. All joints installed below the floor slab shall be brazed.
  • Copper tubing type M or heavier may be used in the ground outside and within the building walls and attic.
  • Exterior and interior hose water faucets and laundry sink type water faucets shall be protected by an approved non-removable type back-flow prevention device.

The size of each section of the water piping system is determined by a combination of:

  • The minimum pressure available in the main.
  • The elevation of the highest outlet.
  • The distance to the most remote outlet.
  • The number of outlets supplied.
  • Gas piping may not be installed underneath the raised floor of a building when the gas line is in the ground or under/within a concrete floor slab of a building. The gas pipe can be attached to the raised wood floor joists minimum 6” above grade.
  • Gas piping shall not be installed in the ground unless it is protected against corrosion by a machine applied coating or wrapping.
  • Unions for gas pipe are only permitted at an exposed fixture appliance or equipment connection and in exposed exterior locations immediately on the discharge side of a building shut off valve.
  • The distance from the meter to the most remote outlet plus the gas demand of the appliance served determines the size of each section of gas piping system.

Once all gas pipes has been installed, perform an air pressure test on the new gas system. The air test shall be made by attaching an air compressor testing apparatus to any suitable opening, and, after closing all other inlets and outlets to the system, forcing air into the system until there is a uniform gauge pressure of 10 pounds per square inch. The pressure shall be held without induction of additional air for a period of at least 15 minutes.

Need to relocate or increase the capacity of your gas meter? Visit the Utilities Department website for information.

Water heaters which depend on the combustion of fuel for heat shall not be installed in any room used or designed to be used for sleeping purposes, bathroom, clothes closets or in any closet or other confined space opening into any bath or bedroom. 

Testing and Inspection:

  • All work must be inspected and approved before being covered, concealed or put into use. All tests must be witnessed by the inspector.
  • Water piping must withstand the street main pressure or 50 psi pounds per square inch (psi) of air pressure without leaking.
  • Metallic gas piping must withstand 10 psi air pressure for at least 15 minutes without leaking.

Typical Installation of Water Heater in Metal Shed Checklist:

  • Shed clearance to side property line is two feet, six inches and three feet to rear property line. Verify approved location with staff at the Planning counter.
  • Termination of type-B vent shall be minimum four feet from the property line. Gravity vents shall extend in a generally vertical direction with offsets not exceeding 45 degrees.
  • Double wall type-B vent requires minimum one-inch clearance to combustible materials. Double wall vent is required outside of the enclosure.
  • Single wall vent connector must be secured to down draft diverter and type-B vent with sheet metal screws.
  • A cold water shut off valve shall be installed for the service or replacement of the water heater.
  • Approved flexible water connectors are approved for water supply to heater within the enclosure only.
  • A combustion air opening in an exterior wall of one-square-inch per 4000 Btu rating of water heater is required within the upper and lower 12 inches of the enclosure.
  • A pressure/temperature relief valve is required to be installed on the water heater. Terminate the discharge line of the relief valve no more than two feet, nor less than six inches above the ground. The end of the discharge line may not be threaded.
  • The water heater shall be anchored or strapped with approved materials to resist horizontal displacement due to earthquake motion. Strapping shall be at points within the upper one-third and lower one-third of its vertical dimension. At the lower point, a minimum distance of four inches shall be maintained above the controls with the strapping.
  • An approved gas shut-off valve is required to be installed at the gas piping outlet, immediately ahead of the flex connector, and must be accessible.
  • A gas flex connector is limited to three feet in length.
  • An air pressure test is required for installation of new a gas line if the new line exceeds six feet. The test consists of pumping air into the new line to a pressure of 10 pounds per square inch for a period of 15 minutes without loss of pressure. The test must be witnessed by an inspector.

Installation Checklist:

  • Establish location of water heater in garage. The location may not block existing required off-street parking areas. Establish the best location for the installation of water heater vent.
  • Termination of type B vent shall be minimum four feet from the property line.
  • Water heaters generating a glow, spark or flame capable of igniting flammable vapors may be installed in a garage, provided the pilots, burners or heating elements and switches are at least 18 inches above the floor level. Provide an adequate platform to elevate the water heater.
  • Double wall type B vent requires minimum one-inch clearance to combustible materials.
  • Type B vent must be secured to the down draft diverter with sheet metal screws.
  • A cold water shut-off valve shall be installed for the service or replacement of the water heater.
  • Approved flexible water connectors are approved for water supply to the heater within the garage only.
  • Provide combustion air for water heater. If the volume of the garage equals at least 50 cubic feet per 1000 British thermal unit (Btu) per hour/h input of the water heater, no additional openings are needed. If not, combustion air openings in the exterior wall of the garage of one-square-inch per 4000 Btu rating of water heater is required within the upper and lower 12 inches of the garage.
  • A pressure/temperature relief valve is required to be installed on the water heater. Terminate the discharge line of the valve no more than two feet, nor less than six inches above the ground outside of the building.
  • The water heater shall be anchored or strapped with approved materials to resist horizontal displacement due to earthquake motion.
  • Provide air pressure test on the new gas system.

For water heaters over 40 gallons but less than 100 gallons, use ¾-inch electrical metallic tubing (EMT) conduit and 1½” metal strap. Water heaters over 100 gallons and/or water heaters more than 12 inches from a wall require a designed system.

Note: Approved manufactured water heater support kits sold at building and plumbing supply stores may be used as an alternate to these requirements.

Installation Checklist:

  • Locate wall studs on both sides of the water heater. Pre-drill holes for anchor bolts in stud center.
  • Measure distance around water heater. Cut two 1 ½” x 16” gauge straps to encompass water heater.
  • Drill holes in the ends of the straps and bend them 45 degrees.
  • Cut four pieces of 1½” EMT conduit to the proper length as shown in diagram and flatten ends.
  • Drill holes in flattened ends of conduit. Bend flattened ends 45 degrees on one side.
  • Install strapping. Strapping shall be located at points within the upper and lower one-third of the vertical dimension of the water heater.
  • At the lower point, a minimum distance of four inches shall be maintained above the controls. Wrap the straps around the heater and insert a 5/16” x 1¼” bolt with washer into the bent ends.
  • Install EMT conduit. Insert ¼” x 3” lag bolts through hole in ends of conduit into the wall stud and tighten. Insert 5/16" x 1¼” bolt, which is in strapping, through other end of conduit and tighten.

Typical On-Lot Building Sewers:

  • Shall be located only on the lot which they serve.
  • Shall be three inches minimum in diameter and 12" below ground if non-metallic.
  • Shall not be non-metallic when within two feet of any building except approved plastics.
  • Shall not be joined by means of cement mortar joints.
  • Shall be supported on a firm bed throughout their entire length.
  • Shall have a ¼" per foot slope toward the street sewer.
  • Shall be provided with a clean-out at their upper terminal, of changes in direction in excess of 135° and at intervals to not exceed 100 feet in straight runs.
  • Shall not be located in the same ditch with domestic water piping unless the water piping rests on a solid shelf 12" to one side and 12" above the sewer if clay sewer is used.
  • Shall not be located in an excavation which is deeper than the bottom of a parallel foundation unless the bottom edge of the excavation in at least one foot away from the foundation for each foot of excess depth.
  • Shall be located only on the lot which they serve.
  • Shall be three inches minimum in diameter and 12" below ground if non-metallic.
  • Shall not be non-metallic when within two feet of any building except approved plastics.
  • Shall not be joined by means of cement mortar joints.
  • Shall be supported on a firm bed throughout their entire length.
  • Shall have a ¼" per foot slope toward the street sewer.
  • Shall be provided with a clean-out at their upper terminal, of changes in direction in excess of 135° and at intervals to not exceed 100 feet in straight runs.
  • Shall not be located in the same ditch with domestic water piping unless the water piping rests on a solid shelf 12" to one side and 12" above the sewer if clay sewer is used.
  • Shall not be located in an excavation which is deeper than the bottom of a parallel foundation unless the bottom edge of the excavation in at least one foot away from the foundation for each foot of excess depth.
 
  • Vertical drainage lines connecting with horizontal drainage lines shall enter through 45-degree wye branches, combination wye and 1/8 bend branches or other approved fittings of equivalent sweep.
  • Horizontal drainage lines connecting with other horizontal drainage lines shall enter through 45-degree wye branches, combination wye and 1/8 bend branches or other approved fittings of equivalent sweep.
  • Horizontal drainage lines, connecting with a vertical stack, shall enter through 45-degree wye branches, 60-degree wye branches, combination wye and 1/8 bend branches, sanitary tee branches or other approved fittings of equivalent sweep.
  • Horizontal trap arms, connecting with a vertical stack or waste, shall enter through sanitary tee branches. A trap arm is that portion of a fixture drain between a trap and a vent. 
  • The size of vent piping shall be determined from its length and the total number of fixture units connected thereto. In addition, the drainage piping of each building and each connection to a public sewer shall be vented by means of one or more vent pipes, the aggregate cross-sectional area of which shall not be less than that of the largest building sewer.
  • Obtain a plumbing permit for installation of new gas pipe over six feet in length. A permit is not required for gas piping not more than six feet in length between an approved gas outlet and any gas-fired appliance, provided that any such gas-fired appliance is in the same room as the gas outlet.
  • If the gas meter needs to be relocated due to an addition or alteration to an existing building, please contact the Utilities Department. An inspector will establish the new location of the gas meter.
  • No gas piping shall be installed in or on the ground under any building or structure and all exposed gas piping shall be kept at least six inches above grade or structure.
  • Ferrous gas piping installed underground in exterior locations shall be protected from corrosion by approved factory coatings. All gas pipe protective coatings shall be machine applied. Apply listed primer and spirally wrap listed tape to provide protection to those fittings and short sections where the factory coating has been damaged or stripped for threading. Use minimum 10-mil tape stretched around the fittings and unprotected areas to provide a minimum 40-mil thickness. All horizontal metallic piping shall have at least 12 inches of earth cover. Contact the Community Development Department to request an inspection before covering pipe.
  • The gas test shall be performed after all gas piping authorized by the permit has been installed, and before any such piping has been covered or concealed.
  • All gas appliance connectors shall be removed from the gas piping that is to be tested. Pressure necessary to test gas system will damage the gas appliances.
  • Remove gas shut-off valves from all gas pipe outlets after gas system has been shut off at meter.
  • Cap all other inlets and outlets to the system. Gas shut-off valves will not hold pressure for the gas test.
  • Required air pressure tests of 10 pounds or less for low pressure gas systems shall be performed utilizing dial gauges of 1/10 pound incrementation or less. A 15-pound test gauge is most commonly used, however a maximum 20-pound gauge would be acceptable as well.
  • Install air pressure test dial gauge on gas pipe. Apply pipe dope or Teflon tape on pipe threads to ensure a proper seal.
  • Perform air pressure test. The air test shall be made by attaching an air compressor testing apparatus to any suitable opening, and, after closing all other inlets and outlets to the system, forcing air into the system until there is a uniform gauge pressure of 10 pounds per square inch. The pressure shall be held without induction of additional air for a period of at least 15 minutes. Note: Never fill the gas system with water.
  • If the gas piping system does not hold the required 10 pounds of pressure for 15 minutes, check the gas piping system for leaks. Leaks in gas piping shall be located by applying soapy water to the exterior of the piping when the gas piping system is under pressure. If a leak is present, the soapy solution will bubble. It shall not be permissible to repair defects in gas piping or fittings, but upon having been located, the defective pipe or fitting shall be removed and replaced with sound material.
  • After the gas piping system has been tested and holds pressure to pass the required test, call for final piping inspection. The inspector will witness the gas pressure test, and if the installation is found to comply, will approve the installation of the gas piping system. The inspector will then notify the Utilities Department of the approval, who will then provide the service.

Plumbing Code FAQs

Polyethylene gas pipes are not approved for indoor use or for encasement in concrete. Polyethylene gas piping is only approved for exterior underground installation and shall be installed with a corrosion-resistant tracer wire (not less than AWG 14) or tape that extends above grade at both ends (CPC Section 1210.1.7, 1210.4.4, 1210.1.7.2).

Removal or obstruction of the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve constitutes a code violation, as it fails to provide the required safety device and protect against excess pressure (CPC Section 504.6 & 608.3).

Yes. All water heaters, regardless of fuel source, shall be strapped to resist seismic movement. There are no exceptions in the CPC that exempt the requirement for strapping electric water heaters (CPC Section 507.2).

Yes, with the exception to this code requirement, clay sewer piping stamped as Extra Strength Vitrified Clay Pipe may remain in place (CPC Table 701.2).

No, the trap for a clothes washer standpipe cannot be installed below the floor. The trap for standpipe must be installed above the floor, no less than six inches and no more than 18 inches to ensure accessibility for inspection, ease of cleaning and proper drainage performance (CPC Section 804.1).

To protect the public water supply from contamination or pollution, backflow prevention measures are regulated by Long Beach Utilities – Water. These requirements are enforced in accordance with the Long Beach Utilities Rules and Regulations.

For more information, please contact the Long Beach Utilities Department, Engineering Development Services, at 562.570.2419, email Water-ServiceCounter@lbwater.org or visit their website.

The following materials are approved for drainage and vent piping:

  • Under-slab or underground drainage and vent piping within a dwelling must be cast-iron soil pipe, approved plastic or type DWV copper tube.
  • Drainage and vent piping installed more than six inches above ground or concrete may be galvanized steel pipe.
  • Drainage piping must slope or grade at least 1/4 inch per foot.
  • The total vent area through the roof must equal the size of the building drain.
  • Plumbing fixtures must be of an approved type and must be properly trapped and vented.

To protect the public water supply from contamination or pollution, backflow prevention measures are regulated by Long Beach Utilities – Water. These requirements are enforced in accordance with the Long Beach Utilities’ Rules and Regulations.

For more information, please contact the Long Beach Utilities Department, Engineering Development Services, at (562) 570-2419, email Water-ServiceCounter@lbwater.org, or visit their website.

A hydromechanical grease interceptor (HGI), commonly known as a “grease trap,” is typically installed indoors and is smaller in size. It is rated by flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM). In contrast, a gravity grease interceptor is a larger tank usually installed outdoors and is sized by total volume in gallons. (CPC Section 1014.2 & 1014.3). 

Grease traps or grease interceptors must be installed in locations that allow easy access for inspection, cleaning, and removal of grease and solids.

  • Indoor installations must not be located in or near food preparation or utensil-handling areas.
  • Outdoor installations must be designed to prevent the entry of surface and storm water.
In the City of Long Beach, the Health Department has primary jurisdiction over the location of indoor grease traps. (CPC Section 1009.5; California Retail Food Code Section 114201(a))
Yes. A relief vent must be installed on all grease traps or grease interceptors. (CPC Section 1009.4)
Yes. Each fixture that discharges into grease traps or grease interceptors must be individually trapped and vented. (CPC Section 1014.1.1)

A vented flow control device is required upstream of the grease trap, as specified by the manufacturer. It must be:

  • Installed in a readily accessible and visible location.
  • Positioned so that no system vent is located between the flow control device and the inlet of the grease trap.

Vented properly either connected to the sanitary drainage vent system or terminated through the roof of the building. (CPC Section 1014.2)

No. Food waste disposers and dishwashers must not be connected or discharged into grease traps or grease interceptors. (CPC Section 1014.2)
Fixtures such as pot sinks, scullery sinks, dishwashing sinks, dishwashing pre-rinse sinks, and similar fixtures must be directly connected to grease traps or grease interceptors that lead to the sanitary waste system. A floor drain should be located adjacent to these fixtures, and the connection must be made on the sewer side of the floor drain trap. No other drainage line should be connected between the floor drain and the grease traps or grease interceptors. (CPC Section 704.3)

The Long Beach Health Department regulates the sizing of water heaters for commercial facilities such as food service establishments, medical offices, and other businesses where hot water is essential for health and sanitation standards. Before installation or modification of water heating systems, water heater sizing calculations must be submitted for review and approval. Required capacity may vary based on the number and type of fixtures or equipment served. For guidance on sizing requirements, please contact the Long Beach Health Department – Environmental Health Division at (562) 570-4132 or email environmentalhealth@longbeach.gov. Additional information is available on theEnvironmental Health Plan Check page.

Yes. Additional requirements may be enforced by:

Long Beach Utilities – Water/Sewer Engineering Development Services Division Call (562) 570-2419 or email Water-ServiceCounter@lbutilities.org for guidance. You may also visit the Grease Trap & Grease Interceptor Plan Check page for more information.